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A trip to Mai Habar with Fessaha Yohannes Joshwa

September 18, 2001 was a horrifying day for Eritreans and international organizations advocating for journalists as well as freedom of speech. The day Eritrean private newspaper journalists and high ranking government officials were put behind

September 18, 2001 was a horrifying day for Eritreans and international organizations advocating for journalists as well as freedom of speech. The day Eritrean private newspaper journalists and high ranking government officials were put behind bars was the day the nation came to an official standstill.

As a journalist working for a private newspaper in pre-September 18, 2001 Eritrea, I had worked with some and had met most of the founders, journalists, contributors and editors who have been locked up for 14 long years. We have attended workshops and seminars or gone to field trips together.

And there were those meetings, we had been going to for months prior to September 18, 2001. In hindsight and in my internal monologues, I had come up with as many “what ifs….” as possible. ‘What if we had taken those meetings seriously’ and so on?  But none made sense whatsoever because we never did take them seriously. What we used to do is this: In advance,  if we ever spoke about them, it was “By the way,…..” kind of thing, with a raised eye-brow. Once there, we would sit there exchanging knowing glances and smiles somehow.

Those meetings usually  took place in the Ministry of Information compound and were mostly chaired by Zemhret Yohannes. Essentially, we were there to be reminded that free press was an illusion. “National security was the media’s priority (even) in the US during the Vietnam war”, we were told. So it was as if we were being asked; “Why don’t you emulate the US media’s ‘patriotism’ during the war and stand behind your government?”

Regardless of who distorted what facts, the writing on the wall could have never been any clearer. We were told to SHUT the F….. UP! Except we were blinded by the illusion of our collective and individual freedom as well as rights as human beings and citizens.

However, I am not going into any of that right now. All I feel is the urge to go back in time, to those days and see all those beautiful, predominantly young, brilliant, self-motivated, questioning, mostly fresh Asmara University graduates the way they were back then.

They were professional teachers, lawyers, accountants, writers, poets, directors, artists, photographers, journalists…etc.  Most of them were also national service members. They have been assigned to something or other. So the newspapers were usually their part-time jobs. However, they have somehow managed to found and ran them in post-independence Eritrea.

And I say, they were what we are not but could have been or will be when we grow up. For me, they represent the conscious, principled, heroic and beautiful part of our past and a future where everything and everyone Eritrean have become the best they could possibly be.

Going back in time, what stands out for me is the camaraderie I experienced there. It is as if all of them had the big picture in that part of their mind where they could easily and frequently access it. They might have been working for various newspapers, founded, owned and ran privately, but they seemed exceptionally conscious of why they were there in the first place.

One other thing I cannot help remembering is, how as a female  (there were only a handful of us) in that male dominated group of reporters, I was always encouraged but never once excluded.

With them put behind bars and the private media crackdown on that historic day, an era came to an abrupt end. And the oasis they had built for their people had been barren ever since.

Fessaha Yohannes or Joshwa is one of those Eritrean journalists who have been in prison for 14 years. I am sure many are familiar with him because he has touched many either through his reporting or his art. As a writer, a lyricist, a drama instructor, a journalist …etc he has left an enormous mark on both the art and media scenes.

As I was working for the newspaper he co-owned and was an editorial board member of, I had the pleasure of working with him. He was the type of person who would make everyone around him feel at ease. Even when you met him for the first time, you could not help but feel that you were talking to someone you have known for a long time. He was very down-to-earth and compassionate. So it was obviously easy for him to put himself in other people’s shoes. Exceptionally powerful in the way he used the spoken as well as the written word, he always made an impact everywhere he went.

I could go on talking about his virtues and his influence as an accomplished artist. But then I would not be able to write about this event that took place a little over 14 years ago which in my mind’s eye has become synonymous with Joshwa.

It started off as a pretty regular day for me. But I somehow found myself on a 110 K/m field trip with Joshwa. We were going to cover something, that much I remember about the failed mission. And as anyone can imagine, we were disappointed. However, we decided to make the most out of that trip. Since we were in Massawa we agreed to go to the beach for a little while. Neither was I dressed for any field trip nor for Massawa. And certainly not for the beach. So I had his pair of plastic sandals on while he walked bare-feet.

On our way back to Asmara, he had one of his brilliant ideas. He turned left. Then May Habar, it was. The camp for Eritrean War Disabled Veterans. Once there, we started looking around. I thought; “We are lost. No one could possibly live here.” Because that place seemed abandoned. And it was very dirty.

Soon enough, Joshwa not only saw someone but he even recognized them. So we moved towards someone who could barely move. It was a former companion he knew a long time ago. It was during the independence struggle when they were both younger and fit. The man told us how impossible it had become for him to take care of his family. Many others shared similar stories.

At some point, it was time for a meal and we had to go into the huge cafeteria with Joshwa’s former comrades. What we saw there was even worse. But we did all we could to mask our true feelings. Trying to pretend everything is okay when it is not is difficult.

Finally, we met a young man who had sustained head injuries. With only an arm and a leg at his disposal, he had to take care of his months old beautiful baby. He told us that his wife left him that morning because she could no longer put up with the hardship at the camp.

At that point, I was confused. But Joshwa was inconsolable. Apparently, he could no longer fight back his tears. It was as if a wall has come down. So from then on tears simply poured down his face. And it seemed to go on forever.

Joshwa and his tears. Now, I ask myself whether he was shedding those tears for what was yet to come in that country he sacrificed his youth for.

Eden Eyasu

aseye.asena@gmail.com

Review overview
14 COMMENTS
  • ድሓን ኪዲ ኤርትራ September 18, 2015

    I would not hesitate to kiss the shoes of our Journalists ,as they truly stood up to Isaias knowing that they would not be remmembered if they oppose the lies of Isaias. These are our true heros.Inside Eritrea nobody thinks the opportunists G-15 are heros, but the journalists ,every person weeps for rthem including me. Thank you journalists ,including Amanuel Iyasu..and that is from my heart.

    • Saba Berhane September 18, 2015

      I couldn’t agree more deHan kidi Eritrea. I too DON’T think too much about the opportunists G-15 as heroes but the poor journalists I feel very sorry about what happened to them, they have really been badly and unjustly treated. But for the other so-called tegadelti and G-15 opportunists it is simply what goes around indeed comes around.

  • Semhar September 18, 2015

    Our Journalists exposed the nature of the tyrant dictator Isayas without fear. They paid high price for the love of our land and our people. They are our true heroes. We all know the G 15 are not different from the tyrant Isayas. The G-15 are killers just like their master Isayas. Our journalists are our heroes including Assena Team.

    • Musa September 19, 2015

      Hi Semhar,
      To generalize that all G-15 are killers is not fair, even if some or most of them were instruments of the predator Isayas and since they called for the rule of law only then we can say who is who?

  • ድሓን ኪዲ ኤርትራ September 18, 2015

    Saba Berhane & Semhar,

    My respect to both of you ,while we feel for the families of G-15,we should not use “pick as you go fake heros”.And my compliment to Assenna ,when comments are not unnecessarily deleted ,the true pride of Habesha comes out and most Eritreans are not brain deficient emotional boobs.You are Exibit A & Exihibit B evedences. My respect to both of you for caring for our people as opposed to finding heros out of 11th hour opportunists.

    My hat tips off for both of you

  • Musa September 19, 2015

    Thank you Eden for telling part of Joshwa’s nobility, very soon the predator will be burned by the noble tears of our people.

  • AHMED SALEH September 19, 2015

    Two wrongs doesn’t make right . I feel sorry to
    see a person victimized by unlawful practices .
    Assenna keep bringing pictures to highlight our
    failed justice system . And I try to observe facts
    beyong my political point of view for reason of
    its humanitarian aspects conviction .

  • solomoneritrean September 19, 2015

    The very true eseyas rush to arrest the journalists and high rank government official was,because he knew that with out arresting them he will not be able to do his secretive and hidden agenda which with his secree friends plened.his long term dream to absorb eritrea to tigray if possible and absorb eritrea to ethiopia if not possible.see eritrea is almost destroyed and its people migrated,if a country is without people what is its importance.he had been siding with Ethiopian soliers in Eritrea especially with demhit by betraying the eritrean defence forces and consolidating forigen powers.

  • solomoneritrean September 19, 2015

    yes asgedom fled to his country Ethiopia because he finished his mission and the Eritrean people understood that DEMHIT and Eseyas wanted to do something against the interest of the eritrean people and the Ethiopian people and bring tigray to Eritrea in order to reduce the tension of eritreans inoerder to pretend as if DeHIT are the enemy of eseyas and as if there is nothing in common among them,they let them go to Ethiopia,to show the Eritrean people they are part of weyane.but weyane are different they do not want eseyas,and they believe in Eritrean independence,but not demhit.

  • solomoneritrean September 19, 2015

    why should tigray come to Eritrea. Ethiopia is a rich country.if they want to secede it is their right according article 39,and they can absorb to Eritrea if the Eritrean people willing but without our choice it is impossible.

  • solomoneritrean September 19, 2015

    G15 or G11

  • solomoneritrean September 19, 2015

    G13 ke beal dr bereket,assefaw

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